牟氏庄园饮食文化牟氏庄园座落于栖霞市境内,是近现代中国北方规模最大、全国保存最完整、最具典型意义的封建地主庄园,被誉为“百年庄园之活化石”、“中国民间小故宫”。庄园始建于清朝雍正年间(公元1735年),鼎盛时家族人口48人,拥有土地6万多亩,山峦12万多亩、房屋5500多间,其中宅院占地2万平方米,房屋480间。
牟氏庄园饮食文化源远流长,历经近300余年而长盛不衰,它以庄园为载体,内函丰富,特色鲜明,生动反映了以胶东半岛为代表的中国北方饮食文化类型及饮食习俗。牟氏家族崇尚“耕读世业,勤俭家风”,坚持“大公大德,以德聚财”的治家格言,鼎盛六大家时,家庭餐饮行“三灶制”。即牟氏自家人吃“小灶”,每天饭菜不固定,一般根据当家人的口味和爱好及季节调节。吃“中灶”的是家族两级管家30多人。中灶饭菜略次于小灶,但菜肴和面食基本固定,逢节和“赶集”日才有变化和改善。“大灶”是为长短工设置的,菜品、面食品种比较粗劣、单调,逢年过节也有改善。
牟氏庄园的宴会名目繁多,其设置相当讲究。牟氏家族自明初入籍栖霞至清末,共出进士、举人、贡生、监生104名,县州官140名,故出仕为官者遍及全国各地,加之亲戚朋友多,迎来送往、觥筹交错之事频繁。名目繁多的宴会有走亲访友宴、接风洗尘宴、婚庆宴、寿宴、新生儿宴、丧葬宴、节日宴、庆丰宴、祝贺宴、贵宾宴以及加官进爵宴等。宴会一般设在庄园堂屋,喜宴和丧宴因就餐人员较多,而设在各种屋内或庭院。宴会气氛围绕主题而设,丰富多彩,渲染力强,例如寿宴、挂寿字、贴寿联,以红色幔帐渲染,意味福如东海,寿比南山。宴会桌椅讲究,器皿高档。宴会的菜品设置一般为“十大碗”、“八大件”和“四二六”等。“十大碗”中,一鸡(鸡块)、二笋(竹笋)、三羹(鸡蛋)、四蹄(猪蹄)、五全(荤烩全家福)、六鲤(鲤鱼)、七酥(酥肉)、八扣(猪脸)、九氽(肉丝或片)、十圆(丸子),具体可根据客人的数量、档次,在件数不变的前提下,变换内容,如将笋、酥变换成煎(刀鱼)和蒸(偏口鱼)等。八人以下的宴会,一般安排“四二六”,即四个凉菜、二个汤菜,六个热炒。
宴会设置还多在席首上四盘点心“压桌面”,席中上点心“撤桌”,酒后主食为面条。
牟氏庄园的饮食主要由各种各样形式及规格的宴席,家常菜肴、点心、主食和米酒等构成,主料副料多来自自产自养的畜、禽、蔬菜以及自采自猎的山珍。
牟氏庄园饮食文化体系结构谨严完整,自成一派且流传久远,影响广泛,牟氏庄园的厨师手艺精堪,烹饪技法多样,烹制的菜肴色味形俱佳。庄园常年在“三灶”司厨的36人。遇有大型宴会和接待“高客”,还要到县城和邻乡慕名请技艺高超的大厨。烹制的菜肴运用煎、炒、炸、烧、熘、熏、蒸、焖、炖、烩、爆、拌、炝、拔丝等多种技法,“牟氏庄园的饭菜好吃”名声远扬。
牟氏庄园饮食文化可以概括为以下四大特点:一、宴席种类繁多,规格不一。
二、烹饪用料广泛,以当地自产原料为主。
三、口味多样,以原料咸鲜为主。
四、制做精细,以爆、炒、溜、烧、炯、蒸为主。
总之,牟氏庄园饮食文化的传承与发展,促进了齐鲁烹饪事业的发展,保存了传统烹饪技艺的精华,发扬了齐鲁烹饪文化精髓,对继承和弘扬民族优秀文化遗产,开发烟台旅游资源,促进栖霞地方经济发展,起到了极大的推动作用。正可谓:牟氏庄园,传承百年。饮食文化,香飘逸远。继往开来,流芳宇寰。CATERINGCULTUREOFMU'SMANORMu'sManor,locatedinQixiacity,isthelargestinnorthChinaandbestpreservedfeudalmanorwiththemostsymbolicsignificanceinChina.Itisreputedasa“livingfossilofcentennialmanor”and“China'sminiaturecivilianForbiddenCity”.TheconstructionofthemanorwasinitiatedinthereignofYongzhengintheQingdynasty(1735).Initsprimestage,therewere48personsinthefamily.Ithasover5,500rooms,coversthelandofmorethan60,000mu(about9,884.35acres)andthemountainareasofover120,000mu(about19,768.71acres),includingtheyardareaof20,000m2and480rooms.Thecateringcultureofthemanorhasalonghistoryandkeepsaliveafterover300years.It,onthebasisofthemanor,hasrichconnotationsanddistinctivefeatures,whichvividlyreflectsthecateringculturetypeandtraditionsofnorthChinarepresentedbyJiaodongPeninsula.TheMu'shouseholdadvocatestheprincipleof“farmingandreadingfordevelopment,anddiligentandthriftmanagementofhouseholds”,andinsistsonthefamilymanagementaphorismof“beingvirtuousandjust,gatheringwealththroughvirtues1”.Initsprimestagewherethereweresixfamilies,thehouseholdadoptedthesystemof“3messes”.Specificallyspeaking,thekinsofMu’shouseholdatethespecialmessinwhichthedisheswerevariedfromdaytodayandwereusuallyadjustedonthebasisoftheirtastes,likings,andseasons.Themedianmesswasforthe30-pluspersonsofmanagersofthehousehold.Thedishesofthemedianmessweresecondslightlytothespecialmess;however,thedishesandpastrieswerebasicallyfixedwithoutchangingandimprovementexceptonfestivalsor“marketing”days.The“ordinarymessnwassetforlong-termandshort-termhirehands,inwhichthedishesandpastrieswereofinferiorqualityandmonotonous.Andevenonfestivalsorothercelebrations,therewasnoimprovement.Thebanquetsofthemanorwerevariedanddaintyinarrangement.FromtheirinhabitationinQixiaintheearlyMingdynastytotheendoftheQingdynasty,thehouseholdofMuhadproduced104successfulcandidatesatlocal,provincial,andimperialexaminations,140officialsatcountyandprefecturelevels.Itisthusnaturalthatmanyfromthehouseholdservedasofficialsalloverthenation.Inaddition,thehouseholdhadmanyrelativesandfriendstohavesocialevents.Thebanquetsinnameofthisorthatincludedthoseforvisitingfriendsandrelatives,welcome,wedding,birthday,newbornbabies,funeral,festival,harvest,congratulation,VIPs,andpromotion.Thebanquetwasusuallyarrangedinthecentralhallofthemanor.Asforweddingandfuneralbanquets,theywereusuallyheldinotheravailableroomsorjustintheyardbecauseofalargenumberofpersons.Theatmosphereofbanquetsfocusedonthespecialthemetobecolorfulandattractive.Forexample,inabirthdaybanquet,Chinesecharactersmeaning“longevity”andcoupletswrittenforlongevitywouldbehungup,andredheavycurtainswereapplied,togethertomean"happinessandlongevity”.Thechairs,tables,andtablewareswereofhighquality.Thedishesofabanquetusuallywereclassifiedintoutenlargebowls”,ubigeightones”,and“four・two・six”,etc.Intheutenlargebowls”,thesequencewasusuallychicken,bambooshoots,steamedeggcustard,pigfeet,steweddelicacies,carp,crispypork,steamedpork,quick-boiledshreddedporkorporkslices,andmeatballs.Theirspecificarrangementmightundergovariationsonthebasisofguestnumbersandlevels.Lindertheconditionofnochangingdishes,thecontentmightbechanged,suchasbambooshootsandcrispyporkmightbereplacedwithfriedsauryandsteamedflatfish.Asforabanquetoflessthaneightpersons,thecommonarrangementwasUfour-two-sixn,namely,fourcolddishes,twosoups,andsixhotdishes.Inmostcases,fourdimsumswerearrangedatthemostdistinguishedplacetoserveas"tablerespectingdimsums",andwhenadimsumwasplacedatthecenterofthetable,itmeanstheendofthebanquet.Thestaplefoodafterdrinkingwasnoodles.ThecateringofMu'sManorwasmainlycomposedofbanquetsofallkindsandspecifications,home-styledishes,dimsums,staplefood,andricewine.Themainandsupplementaryingredientsweremainlyfromself-raisedlivestock,poultry,vegetables,andself-huntedandpickeddelicaciesfrommountains.Thecateringculturesystemofthemanorwasofstrictstructureandcomplete.Itformeditsownstyleandhadalonghistoryandlastinginfluence.Chefsofthemanorwereproficientincooking,masteredmanycookingskills,andthedishescookedbythemwereexcellentincolor,taste,andshape.Therewere36regularchefsforthe“3messes”.Whentherewasabanquetoflargescaleorfo「“VIPs”,greatchefswithexcellentskillswouldbeinvitedfromthecountyseatorneighboringtowns.Theirdishesweremadeofcookingmethodsincludingfrying,stir-frying,deep-frying,braising,sauteing,smoking,steaming,stewing,hottoffee.Thefamethat“thedishesofthemanoraredelicious”wasspreadfaraway.Thecateringcultureofthemanorcanbegeneralizedintothefourfeatures:I. Banquetsinvariousnamesandofdifferentsizes.II. Extensiveselectionofcookingmaterials;andmostofthemarefromlocalproduces.III. Varioustastes,andthemainstreamissaltyandfresh.IV. Delicatecooking.Quick-frying,stir-frying,sauteing,braising,stewing,andsteamingarethemainmethods.Ingeneral,theinheritanceanddevelopmentofthecateringcultureofMu'smanorhashelpedthepromotionofShandongcuisine,preservedtheessenceofthetraditionalcuisineskills,publicizingthequintessenceofShandongcuisineculture,greatlypromotedtheinheritanceandpublicizingtheoutstandingnationalculturalheritage,developmentoftourismresourcesofYantai,andthegrowthofthelocaleconomyofQixia.Itispropertosaythat:ThecentennialMu'sManorhaslastingandprofoundcateringculture,andwillcarryonthepastandopenawayforfuturetoleaveagoodfameallovertheglobe.