福山拉面“叉子火烧福山面,宁海州里喝脑饭。”这是烟台民间谚语。福山拉面是山东传统风味名吃,也是中国北方四大面食之一,在国内外享有很高的声誉。福山拉面历史久远,但到底源于何时尚待考证。我国面条起源于汉代,至今已有两千多年的历史。当时所有的面食皆称之为“饼”,在汤中煮熟的面食称为“汤饼”。早期的汤饼呈片状,汉•杨雄著《方言》中有“饼谓之饪”。早期的饪是将和好的面团托在手上,然后拉扯成条状或薄片状下锅煮成的,这种古代面食,堪称福山拉面之萌芽,后来逐渐由片状演变成条状。贾思勰的《齐民要术》中所载的“水引饼”与现代的面条相近。明代出现了技艺高超的“抻面”,即拉面,程敏政在《面食行》诗中写到“傅家面食天下工,制法来自东山东,美如甘酥色莹雪,一匙入口心神融”,高度赞美了胶东面食品。福山拉面最早是用香油浸泡过的砂陶碗来盛的,用料也十分考究。它因其技术独到,风味独特,先后传入北京、上海、天津、大连及东北各大城市。19世纪中叶,福山拉面制作工艺开始远播世界多国,至今日本、韩国、美国、英国等国家的中餐馆中仍然挂着福山拉面的招牌。20世纪三四十年代,烟台各大饭店均经营福山拉面,如永胜馆、双胜馆、东顺馆、万和盛、永宁馆等。著名京剧表演艺术家程砚秋、尚小云、荀慧生、马连良、谭富英、金少山、杨宝森等来烟台演出,烟台京剧票友一般都在蓬莱春或万和盛设宴款待,席间均要品尝福山拉面,食后无不称奇,并言传于人,使福山拉面盛名更隆,因而当时有人把三鲜面、扁条面、龙须面、空心面同京剧四大名旦相提并论。七十年代初福山拉面被山东烹饪高级技工学校(原山东省烟台商业技工学校)列入教学及考试考核品种,历届中华国际美食节均将其列为比赛品种,后被山东省劳动和社会保障厅列入烹饪技能考核品种。
福山拉面具有工艺性高、面条柔滑软糯、品种繁多、经济实惠等特点。它包括和面、溜条、出条、下锅、开卤等许多工艺流程,其中溜条包括丢荡和摔打两种制法。丢荡法是将和好的面团运用两臂和腕力,使面团抻长后,再扭、叠、抻,最后出条;摔打法则是将和好的面团放在案板上反复的摔打,再叠、抻,然后出条。福山拉面分为实心面、空心面、一窝丝(龙须面)三种。实心面分为圆形、扁形、三棱三种20多个规格。如实心面面条成型后可分为带子条、灯草皮、柳叶条、扁条、韭菜扁、绿豆条、匀条、细匀条、大条、三角条等20多种条形,卤汁可分为温卤、大卤、炸酱、麻汁、油盐拌、清汤、炮汤、半汤、检勺和炒面等20多个种类,并且条与卤的配合也有一定的要求,一般是浓汁配粗条,清汁配细条。空心面是将拉面运用特殊工艺,拉出中间空心、两头透气的特种面条。龙须面是将一根溜好的面条对拉11扣,拉成2048根细如发丝的面条。面条潦熟后过水,浇汁(酱),再拌上黄瓜丝、马蹄刀葱、韭菜末、咸香椿末等面码(亦称面碟),麻汁面还要浇上虾皮葱花汤,吃起来更具特色,更有魅力。HAND-PULLEDNOODLES,FUSHANSTYLEAsthelocalproverbofYantaigoes,fork-likebakedwheatcake,hand-pullednoodlesofFushanstyle,andtofupuddingincongeeofNinghaistylearethebestofall”.AsatraditionalsnackofShandongflavorandoneofthemajorfourpastriesinthenorthernChina,thehand-pullednoodlesofFushanstylehavelongbeenhighlyvaluedinChinaandabroad.Despiteitslonghistory,itsoriginhasnotbeenproven.ThenoodlesinChinacanbetracedbacktotheHandynastyabout2000yearsago.Atthetime,allpastrieswereaddressas“cake”,andthoseboiledinsoupwerecalledUsoupcake”.The“soupcake"initsearlyperiodwasslice-shaped,andinthebooktitledDialectsauthoredbyYangXiongoftheHandynasty,itwasrecordedthat"'cake'iscalled'tuo”'.Thecakeintheearlyperiodwasplacedonahandandpulledintoslicesorflakeswhichwereboiledinawok.ThepastrymadeinthiswaycanbethesproutingofHand-pulledNoodles,FushanStyle,anditlaterevolvedfromslicesintostrips.The“shuiyinbing(water-dilutedcake)MrecordedinQiminYaoshu,averyfamousancientagronomybookauthoredbyJiaSixieisquitesimilartomodernnoodles.IntheMingdynasty,thereappearedChenmian,hand-pullednoodlesrequiringproficientskills.AnscholaroftheMingdynastyoncewroteinhispoem,OnPastry,tohighlypraisepastryofJiaodongarea,thatTu*spastryisfamousallovertheworld,itsmakingmethodisfromtheeastofShandong,thenoodlesarecrispyandsnow-white,takingonespoonofnoodlesisrefreshing”.Hand-pullednoodlesofFushanstyleinitsearlieststagewereputintosandpotterybowlssoakedinsesameoil,andtheingredientswerealsocarefullyselected.Withthehelpofitsuniquetechnologyandflavor,itwasintroducedintocitiessuchasBeijing,Shanghai,Tianjin,Dalian,andotherlargecitiesinthenorth-eastofChina.Inthemiddleof1890's,thetechnologyofmakingthenoodleswasspreadtoforeigncountries,andevennowChineserestaurantsinJapan,SouthKorea,USA,andGreatBritainstilllistthehand-pullednoodlesofFushanastheirspecialty,In1930and1940's,alllargerestaurantsinYantaiservedhand-pullednoodlesofFushanstyle,includingYongshengRestaurant,ShuangshengRestaurant,DongshunRestaurant,WanheshengRestaurant,andYongningRestaurant.Atthetime,whenfamousperformancemastersofPekingoperasuchasChengYanqiu,ShangXiaoyun,XunHuisheng,MaLianliang,TanFuying,JinShaoshan,YangBaosenperformedinYantai,localoperafansusuallyhostedbanquetsinPenglaichunorWanheshengrestaurantinwhichthenoodleswereindispensable.Themastersfeltamazedatthedeliciousnoodlesandhelpedpromoteitspopularity.Withtheirpromotion,thenoodlesweresopopularthatpeopleofthetimecomparedthefourvarietiesofnoodleswiththreedelicacies,flatnoodles,slimnoodles,andmacaroniwiththeFourFamousDansofPekingOpera.Inearly1970's,thehand-pullednoodlesofFushanstylewerelistedintotheteachingandexaminationprogrambyShandongCuisineAdvancedVocationalSchool(theformerYantaiCommercialVocationalSchoolofShandongProvince),andtheInternationalFestivalofChineseDeliciousFoodofallprevioussessionlisteditasonevarietyforcompetition.ItwaslaterlistedinthecookingskillappraisalbytheLaborandSocialSecurityDepartmentofShandongprovince.Thenoodlesenjoyfeaturesofdemandinghighskills,beingsoft,smooth,andglutinous,havingmanyvarieties,cost-effective.Theprocesscanbedividedintodough-mixing,strips-pulling,strips-making,puttingtocook,andgravysaucemaking,andtherearetwomethodsofpullingstrips,throwingandbeating.Thethrowingmethodmeansstretchingadoughwiththeforcefromarmsandwrists,twisting,folding,pulling,andfinallyproducingnoodles,whilethebeatingmethodbeatingadoughontoaflourboardrepeatedly,andthenfoldingandpulling,finallyproducingnoodles.Thehand-pullednoodlesofFushanstylearedividedintothreevarieties,namelysolid,hollow,andslim.Thesolidvarietycanbefurtherclassifiedintotheround,flat,andprisminover20specifications.Forexample,whenthesolidnoodlesareshaped,thereareover20stripshapesincludingbelt,lampwick,willowleave,flat,chive,mungbean,even-thickness,slimeven-thickness,bigstrips,andtrianglestrips.Thegravysaucecanbedividedinto20-plusvarietiessuchaslukewarm,big,deep-fried,sesamesauce,oilwithsalt,clearsoup,quick-friedsoup,halfsoup,braised,andstir-friedones.Inaddition,thematchingbetweenstripsandgravysauceisrequired.Generallyspeaking,thickgravysauceissuitabletoservewiththickstrips,whileclearoneswithslimstrips.Thehollownoodlesmeanspecialoneswithhollowcoreandtwoopenendsmadewithspecialskills.Theslimnoodlesmean2049stripsofnoodlesasthinashairmadethroughpullingonenoodleafterfolding11times.Afternoodlesarecookedthrough,theyareflushedwithwater,pouredwithgravysauce,mixedwithshreddedcucumber,scallion,mincedChinesechives,andmincedpickledChinesetoonleaves.Thenoodleswithsesamesauceusuallyarepouredwithsoupofdriedshrimpsandmincedscalliontomakemoredeliciousandtasty.