葱烧海参作为鲁菜的传世经典名菜,葱烧海参以其独特的魅力,誉满华夏,蜚声海外,征服了世人,写下了中华美食史上辉煌的一页。
葱烧海参顾名思义,即用山东大葱烧制海参而成的菜肴,主料是烟台海域所产的刺参。葱烧海参历史悠久,源于渔民家宴烹调的菜。传说东汉年间,烟台沿海渔村有一位王姓汉子,常年赶海潜水捞来海参煮食,故身体很棒,从不生病。他生有9个女儿,55岁又喜得贵子。儿子满月时,亲戚朋友和街坊邻居前来贺禧。王汉非常高兴,将赶海捞来的半筐活海参,让几个女儿做给前来贺禧的客人吃。因来人较多,王汉怕海参不够,就吩咐女儿到后园拔葱来烧制。女儿个个是烹制海鲜的高手,便把活海参用大火煮透,顺肉刺切片,把猪油烧热放入葱段,炸至金黄色时加鸡汤、盐、酱油、海参,烧开后微火煨煮至透。王汉将用大葱烧出的海参给每位客人盛上一碗,大家尝后直夸烧制的海参软糯味足,葱香扑鼻,非常好吃。这便是葱烧海参的雏形。此做法很快传播到街坊邻居和十里八乡。
后来人们发现海参营养丰富,常食大有裨益,加葱烧制后又理肺通气、和胃健脾,因此葱烧海参名声大震,并成为烟台厨师的拿手菜。葱烧海参不仅在民间很受推崇,而且成为御膳菜。元朝,烟台厨师进宫为忽必烈做汉食时有葱烧海参;明朝隆庆年间烟台厨师为朱载里皇帝宠妃作寿设置的菜肴中,仍有葱烧海参;葱烧海参深得历代皇帝喜爱。
清末民初始,烟台厨师出国谋生,也把葱烧海参这道美食带到了国外。
葱烧海参原用碗盛,色暗、汁宽、葱塌。20世纪30年代,北京丰泽园饭庄名厨王世珍(籍贯系烟台市福山区权家村,解放后曾任丰泽园饭店副经理、国家第一批特级厨师、获“全国十大名厨”称号)经过改进、规范、定型,被业内接受,他为此被誉为“海参之王”。丰泽园饭店技术总监、国家级烹饪大师、鲁菜泰斗王义均(籍贯烟台市福山区河北村)在1983年全国首届烹饪大赛暨全国烹饪名师技术表演赛上,获两项大奖,其中烹调的热菜是葱烧海参。
现在烟台葱烧海参原料有干海参水发和鲜海参高压两种。水发海参的做法是,将海参切成长方片焯水,控净水分,再入9成热油中一冲,捞出将油控净。清汤加葱、姜、精盐、料酒、酱油、曰糖、海参等,烧开后微火煨透,捞出控干,另起油锅,将猪油烧至四成热时放入葱段炸至微黄色时加精盐、海参、清汤、白糖、料酒、酱油和糖色,烧开后用中火烧透收汁,上旺火用淀粉勾成浓熘芡,加味精,淋入葱油盛出。规范烹调方法后烧制的海参色泽红亮、葱香浓郁、味鲜质糯、爽滑油润、口味极佳。BRAISEDSEACUCUMBERWITHSCALLIONAsaclassicaldishofShandongcuisine,BraisedSeaCucumberwithScallionenjoysgreatfameathomeandabroadwithitsuniquecharm,takingaprominentpositioninthehistoryofChinesecuisine.ItiseasytotellfromitsnamethatitispreparedbybraisingscallionsfromShandongwithseacucumberfromtheseaofYantai.Originatedfromfishermen'shouseholdrecipes,BraisedSeaCucumberwithScallionhasalonghistorydatedbacktotheEasternHandynasty.TherewasafishermansurnamedWanginacoastalvillageofYantai,whoenjoyedgoodhealth,sinceheoftenateboiledseacucumbercaughtfromfishinganddiving.Hehad9daughters,andattheageof55hegotanewson.Hisrelatives,neighborsandfriendscameforcelebrationonthe30thdayoflifeofthenewborn.Wangwasveryhappy.Hedecidedtoservehisguestswithahalfbucketofseacucumbers,hiscatchoftheday.Fearingthatthereweretoomanyguests,Wangaskedhisdaughterstocooktheseacucumberswithscallionsgrownatbackyard.Wang'sdaughterswereexpertsincookingseafood.Theyfirstboiledseacucumbersandslicedthemalongthesoftspinesontheirbacks,thenheatedthelardandfriedthescallionstogoldenwhentheyaddedchickensoup,salt,soysauceandseacucumbers,allofwhichwereboiled,thenbraisedonsoftfireuntiltheyweredone.Wangservedeachguestwithabowlofthedishandeveryonewasimpressedbyitsglutinousanddelicioustasteaswellasthearomaofscallions.ThiswastheoriginalrecipeofBraisedSeaCucumberwithScallion,whichwassoonspreadintheneighborhoodandvillagesnearby.Sincethenpeoplefoundthatseacucumberwasofrichnutritionandbenefitedpeople'shealthgreatly.Cookedwithscallions,ithelpedthebreathcirculationanddidgoodtolungs,stomachandspleen.ThereforethisdishbecamerenownedasaspecialtyofYantaichefs.Notonlywasitpopularinfolkkitchens,butalsoenteredintoimperialservice.IntheYuandynasty,thedishwasincludedinthefoodofHanethnicgrouppresentedtoKublaiKhanbyHanchefs;intheMingdynasty,thedishappearedinthebanquetincelebrationofthebirthdayofEmperorZhuzaihou'sfavoriteconcubine.Thisdishwasnotonlyfavoredbyemperors,butalsotakenabroadinthelateQingdynastyandthebeginningoftheRepublicofChinaPeriodbyYantaichefswhowentabroadtoseekalivinginforeigncountries.BraisedSeaCucumberwithScallionwasoriginallyservedinbowlswithdarkcolor,thickextract,andtenderscallions.Inthe1930'sthefamouschefWangShizhenfromFengzeyuanRestaurantinBeijingimprovedandfinalizedtherecipe,andgotwiderecognition,thusgainingthefameofKingofChefsforCookingSeaCucumbers.OriginallyfromQuanjiaVillageinFushandistrict,Yantaicity,heeverservedasdeputymanagerofFengzeyuanRestaurantinBeijngaftertheliberationin1949andgainedsuchtitlesasSuperChefsofChinainthefirstbatchandTop10ChefsofChina.Mr.WangYijun,anothermasterofShandongcuisinefromHebeiVillageinFushandistrict,Yantaicity,isanationalmasterandservesasthetechnicalsupervisorofFengzeyuanRestaurant.Hewontwoawardsatthe1stNationalCuisineContestandFamousChefs'CulinaryShowin1983.OneawardwasforhiscookingofBraisedSeaCucumberwithScallion.Theseacucumbersusedinthedishcomeintwotypes:rehydratedseacucumbersandfreshseacucumber.Therecipefortherehydratedseacucumberisasfollows:first,cutseacucumbersintorectangularslices,quick-boiltheminboilingwater,tricklewaterofftheslices,putthemintohotoilforquickfrying,andleachoilofftheslices;Second,putintoclearsoupscallion,ginger,salt,cookingricewine,soybeansauce,sugarandprocessedseacucumberslices,heatthesouptoboilingandbraiseonsoftfiretilldone,gettheseacucumberslicesoutandleachsoupoffthem;Third,heatthelardtoalmostmediumhotinanotherwokandfryscallionstothecoloroflightgolden,thenputintosalt,processedseacucumberslices,clearsoup,sugar,cookingricewinesoybeansauceandsugarcolor,boilthemupandchangetomediumheatforabsorbingjuice.Afterthat,makethickstarchingoverhighheat,putinMSGandscallionoilbeforeitisreadytoserve.Cookedinthestandardprocessthedishhasbrightreddishseacucumber,fragrantscallion,fresh,glutinous,smooth,andcrispytaste.